Why Climb Amadablam once in life- Altitude Expeditions?

Amadablam (6,812m) is a majestic pyramid-shaped of mountain in Nepal. It is located south of the Khumbu valley. The first southeast ridge summit of Amadablam was the first ascent in 1961 by American climber Barry Bishop. Then many climbers often climb Amadablam during the fall season, because it is one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, climbing mount Amadablam is an experience you’ll never forget.

If you want to make the summit of Amadablam 6,812m of Nepal, join the Altitude Expeditions on one of our small group expeditions to climb Amadablam via the southwest ridge for spring 2023 and 2022 autumn. We will lead the limited to six climbers with an Altitude Expeditions guide (who summit Everest 13 times) and an optimum Sherpa to client ratio of 1:1. For the safe climb.

At Altitude Expeditions, we made successful leading to Amadablam in the previous year, with over 14 years of guide experience in Everest; We will bring the best portion of the Amdablam expedition. During this expedition focus on your chances of summit success and safety as possible by caring and supporting with all resources under the guidance of an Everest summiteer guide and climbing Sherpa.
On this expedition, we will start with a short scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and then trek through the heartland people the Sherpa people’s village. Needless to say, before arriving at the Amadablam base camp team will make an ascent of Island peak 6,189m to assist in acclimatization before Amadablam climb ahead including two days rest or acclimatize day during the trek.

 

Above Amadabalma Base Camp

From the Amadablam base camp, we establish two camps before the summit bid. In total, we will take about two weeks from base camp to the summit by moving up and down in the mountain to get stronger and acclimatize. During the climbing period, our guide and climbing Sherpa will be always with you as well as ferry expedition equipment and set up camp on the mountain.

The climb from Base Camp to Camp I is not technical, but above Camp I, climber must use the appropriate climbing equipment and fixed ropes to the summit. Due to the mixed rock and ice ridge, the climbing Amadablam is more technical, and participants require the experience of rock and ice climbing with excellent physical fitness. The summit of Amadablam offers a technical climbing experience along with a stunning view of the world’s highest mountains, including Everest 8,848m, Lhotse 8,516, Makalu 8,463m, Cho Oyu 8,201m and more peaks in Nepal.

When is the best time to climb Mount Amadablam? How many succeed?

The best time to climb Amadablam is October, November and April to May. During this sea, more than re hundreds of mountaineers reach the summit of Amadablam. With lots of clear and skies, prior experience this climber has the best opportunity to summit Amadablam. In the past 2016-2022, the success rate of Amadablam summiting has doubled.

Is Amadabalam crowded?

The Southeast Ridge of Amadablam is more crowded during autumn, but the spring season is 30% less compared then autumn. In the spring season, we can skip the crowd’s route while climbing. Therefore, we offer Ama Dablam in the autumn and spring season, both seasons are ideal times to climb Ama Dablam.

What Experience is required to climb Amadablam?

Ama Dablam is a technical rock and ice climbing mountain; climbers needed these two skills to reach the summit. Needless to say, climbers must have good physical and mental fitness for the climb. Climbing Amadablam also provides a taste of a true Himalayan expedition in life. Alternatively, if climbers haven’t enough technical experience, we highly recommend Lobuche peak 6119m, which is a great preliminary training option before heading to Ama Dablam. Ultimately, our team don’t just lead the expedition- they work with the client closely to provide specific training for Ama Dablam at base camp to build your climbing skills and strength to climb a little higher.

Please contact us to discuss, your preferred dates, preferred dates or your suitability.

Island peak is great option to challenge next 7000m

Where is the island peak?

Island peak is frequently climbing a peak in Nepal; it lies between the imposing Lhotse south face and Ama Dablam. The peak was nicknamed island peak in 1953 by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. If you are looking for a mountain experience over 6000m peaks, then Island Peak 6,189m & Mera peak 6,476m would be a good progression for a novice climber to develop the skills and confidence for any future Himalayan objectives.

How difficult to climb the Island peak?

Island peak is normally a training peak for those attempting Everest as the ice wall is similar to the Khumbu icefall, but without as many crevasses – it’s not as dangerous.

Well, the climbing begins from base camp at the altitude of 5,100m early midnight. The route goes up a gradual rocky train for about 2-4 hours towards the crampon point. At the crampon point, you will put on your climbing gear and slowly began walking through the snow glacier section and ice with rope. After reaching the bottom of the ice wall, we connect ascender and safety to the fixed line and begin to climb up. The final summit route goes the vertical ice wall with a 75 degree about 250m, which leads to a broad ridge to the summit.

Reaching the top of the island peak takes 6-8 hours of strenuous walk on the snow glacier section sometimes crevasse sections and descend back base camp 3-4 hours. Climbing Island peak require technical task includes using crampons, climbing ladders, crossing crevasses, ascenders, descenders and rope work, so it can be the hardest part but each corner brings it something new and thrilling experience.

 

What experience require for island peak?

If you have made it to Everest base camp, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus then the island would be a perfect progression. Climbers do not require previous climbing experience but must require some high altitude trekking experience, able to carry an average of 15-20 lbs, walk up – down with crampons on snow by using ascenders and descenders on a fixed rope along with you need the strength to pull yourself up the vertical ice wall and need to be prepared. Also, at the same time you can trek Everest base camp with island peak.

Why do people love to climb Island peak 6,189m?

  1. Popular for novice trekkers and climbers
  2. You can climb in just within 15 days from Kathmandu to Kathmandu
  3. You can do Everest base camp trek before heading to island peak, but it takes 3 days extra 18 days total Kathmandu to Kathmandu (Adding Everest base camp trek help body acclimatize for island peak)
  4. From the top, you will see all major mountains of the Everest region including Nuptse 7,861m, Lhotse 8,516m, Lhotse Shar 8,393m, Makalu 8,481 m, Baruntse 7129m, Amadablam 6,812m with many 6000m peaks with beautiful Khumbu landscape
  5. You can experience the unique Sherpa’s village cultures with their kind hospitality in the Himalayas region

When is the best season to climb the Island peak to me?

Island peak can climb during the March-April & autumn to Nov month, which is best to attempt the peak. So, if you would like keen to climb in December, it is possible but you must challenge with colder temperature more than -25. Besides, in the wintertime will be very few crowds to climb and treks.