Island peak is great option to challenge next 7000m

22nd Sep 2022

Island peak is great option to challenge next 7000m

Where is the island peak?

Island peak is frequently climbing a peak in Nepal; it lies between the imposing Lhotse south face and Ama Dablam. The peak was nicknamed island peak in 1953 by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. If you are looking for a mountain experience over 6000m peaks, then Island Peak 6,189m & Mera peak 6,476m would be a good progression for a novice climber to develop the skills and confidence for any future Himalayan objectives.

How difficult to climb the Island peak?

Island peak is normally a training peak for those attempting Everest as the ice wall is similar to the Khumbu icefall, but without as many crevasses – it’s not as dangerous.

Well, the climbing begins from base camp at the altitude of 5,100m early midnight. The route goes up a gradual rocky train for about 2-4 hours towards the crampon point. At the crampon point, you will put on your climbing gear and slowly began walking through the snow glacier section and ice with rope. After reaching the bottom of the ice wall, we connect ascender and safety to the fixed line and begin to climb up. The final summit route goes the vertical ice wall with a 75 degree about 250m, which leads to a broad ridge to the summit.

Reaching the top of the island peak takes 6-8 hours of strenuous walk on the snow glacier section sometimes crevasse sections and descend back base camp 3-4 hours. Climbing Island peak require technical task includes using crampons, climbing ladders, crossing crevasses, ascenders, descenders and rope work, so it can be the hardest part but each corner brings it something new and thrilling experience.

What experience require for island peak?

If you have made it to Everest base camp, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus then the island would be a perfect progression. Climbers do not require previous climbing experience but must require some high altitude trekking experience, able to carry an average of 15-20 lbs, walk up – down with crampons on snow by using ascenders and descenders on a fixed rope along with you need the strength to pull yourself up the vertical ice wall and need to be prepared. Also, at the same time you can trek Everest base camp with island peak.

Why do people love to climb Island peak 6,189m?

1. Popular for novice trekkers and climbers
2. You can climb in just within 15 days from Kathmandu to Kathmandu
3. You can do Everest base camp trek before heading to island peak, but it takes 3 days extra 18 days total Kathmandu to Kathmandu (Adding Everest base camp trek help body acclimatize for island peak)
4. From the top, you will see all major mountains of the Everest region including Nuptse 7,861m, Lhotse 8,516m, Lhotse Shar 8,393m, Makalu 8,481 m, Baruntse 7129m, Amadablam 6,812m with many 6000m peaks with beautiful Khumbu landscape
5. You can experience the unique Sherpa’s village cultures with their kind hospitality in the Himalayas region

When is the best season to climb the Island peak to me?

Island peak can climb during the March-April & autumn to Nov month, which is best to attempt the peak. So, if you would like keen to climb in December, it is possible but you must challenge with colder temperature more than -25. Besides, in the wintertime will be very few crowds to climb and treks.